Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Part Three - Research Point

Research Point

Today many young people live in a different world from their parents, reacting to many influences outside of family and community. In Peru instead of spinning wool or fur from their animals, many can buy and are beginning to weave with synthetic yarn made by machines. I think this is now common in most places.
Many areas are now saving cultural heritage, many crafts are coming back into fashion. In our area we have "Made In Cumbria" http://madeincumbria.co.uk which lists small businesses with everything hand made in cumbria.
The Wool Clip www.woolclip.com understood the threat to British wool and local sheep farming and the loss of traditional craft skills. By creating a co-operative, they were able to raise the profile of their work and create a shop that they could share. When I paid a visit I spoke to Rachael Matthews and she was saying how passionate the 15 members are in specialising in using local wool such as Herdwick, Swaledale, Cheviot & Jacob sheep, which provide glorious wools in textures that fit so many uses and even local Alpaca now provide beautiful fleeces. There life style is very relaxed and enjoyable, they do workshops with weaving,dyeing wools, spinning & tapestry looms.
Many crafts have changed over the years. In "The New Textiles" it was interesting to read about the cultural aspects of quilt making and also about the history of crazy quilts. Patchwork quilts were originally a way to re-use fabrics to make new items for the home.
After having a look at Eco-Chic The Fashion Paradox, shows the importance of fashion, in terms of environmental awareness in the fashion industry. Much of the discussion is "fast fashion" and "slow fashion" and questions whether it is possible to provide more conscientious designs that will satisfy consumers who are used to cheap and fast clothing.
Weaving

The earliest evidence of weaving, closely related to basketry, dates from Neolithic cultures of about 5000BCE. Weaving apparently preceded spinning of yarn; woven fabrics probably originated from basket weaving. Cotton, Silk, Wool and Flax fibres were used as textile materials in ancient Egypt; Cotton was used in India by 3000BCE; and silk production is mentioned in Chinese chronicles dating to about the same period.
Weaving was in an advanced state in North and Southern America during prehistoric times. Inca cotton and wool fabrics were brilliantly coloured, with patterns based on geometric and conventionalised human forms.
English settlers established a cloth mill in Massachusetts in 1638. The Yorkshire weavers produced heavy cotton fustian; cotton twill jeans; and linsey-woolsey, a coarse, loosely woven fabric of linen and wool.
Mechanical spinners produced in 1769 and 1779 by Sir Richard Arkwright and Samual Crompton encouraged development of mechanised processes of carding and combing wool for the spinning machines.
The modern textile industry is still closely related to the olden industry, but production of fabrics for industrial use has gained in importance. Conventional weaving and knitting methods are currently the major textile manufacturing techniques, but newer construction methods are achieving acceptance and may replace certain long established textiles continue to rise and rapid technological advances continually develop new materials.




Research on Wordsworth House, Cockermouth

Wordsworth House was the home to the famous poet William Wordsworth.
It was built at the end of the 17th century.
Wordsworth House, Cockermouth
Rear View of Wordsworth House


The design of a Scotch double cloth carpet of 1765 from Townend, Troutbeck, was copied for the Brussels Wilton carpet in the entrance hall. Furniture in "The Best Parlour" were Chippendale armchairs of c.1755 upholstered in red wool damask.
Mrs Wordsworth's bedroom -  she had a Chippendale style four-poster bed, hung with white lawn linen with floral sprig pattern. This fabric copying an English fabric dating from 1765, it is also used for the 18th century style 'festoon' window curtains.

Part Three - Notes & Reflective Commentary

How does working with fabric in this way compare with working directly with stitch?
I found you can have more choice, It allows your design to stand out more with 3D effect. 
I think it also lets you have more variety because you can mix fabric & stitch together.
I had not done anything like this before so I did find some parts challenging.

Are you pleased with the shapes and movements that you have created in both 
applique and fabric manipulation? What would you do differently?
Overall I'm please how the projects have turned out. Stage two I wasn't sure if I had done this correctly.I did enjoy doing the designs.I loved the way the knitted Hollyhocks came out, I had not attempted anything like that and I can certainly see ways to got with them.I think on the cut back applique I would have hand stitched around the cut edge if I had only known my sewing machine was going to play up!

How did the pieces work in relation to your drawings? Were the final results very different from the drawings? Did the fabric manipulation technique take over and dictate the final result?
Some pieces were very different from the sketch such as Bunch of Flowers, I felt itcame out well but didn't look like the drawing at all. The stage 2 colourful drawing I felt didn't look like the painting, the threads of twisted wool were obviously going the correct way but the colours were different so I think this maybe had something to do with it. However Stage two I think some maybe looked too much like the drawings!

Was it helpful to work from the drawings in the applique' exercise? Would you have preferred to play directly with cut shapes and materials?
It helped in the way I knew in my mind I was going to make Hollyhocks and use cotton material and wool (at the time I wasn't sure how I would make them work together), to be fair I worked ideas in my head from previous knitting experience.
I think it might have been easier with cut shapes & materials not sure though.

How do you feel about working with stitch in general?  Is it a area you would like to pursue in more depth?  Do you find it limiting in any way?
I love working with stitch, I will be doing more with it. The only little issue I find is, 
it can take me longer which I think is just lack of experience in this field. 


Books used for research 

 The New Textiles Trends & Traditions - Chloe Colchesters
Textiles Today, A Global Survey Of Trends And Traditions - Chloe Colchester
Colour on Cloth - Ruth Isselt (Loved this book, loads of ideas) 
Drawn to stitch - Gwen Hedley (Very useful for drawing techniques)
Two Hour Silk Ribbon Embroidery - Malissa Williams
Textile Art - A practical & inspirational guide to manipulating colouring and embellishing fabric - This book was fantastic explaining how to make things. 
Stitch - February/March 

Saturday, 28 January 2012

Part 3 Project 6 - Stage 4 Raised and structured surface textures

Project 6 - Raised and structured surface textures

These different types of examples below show the variety of ways you can experiment with images and designs and how different fabrics are better for some designs than others.Gathered wool is very different to gathered calico. Quilting really makes the pattern stand out on the material.


Cut-back applique

Layering

Bubble Fabric

Moulding
Sample: 

Quilting



Tucking


Folding and Pleating




Gathering knitted wool (also raised shapes)
Gathering Calico



FINAL SAMPLE


My final sample is taken from my garden, I love Hollyhocks and thought it would be a challenge to bring the
boldness of the flower to life.







I used various types of materials for this sample, the stem was cotton which was wrapped around wadding to give it thickness and twisted every two inches. I then knitted different wools which were double knitting and three ply. I was really please  how the three ply came out (very delicate) I also experimented with number of stitches I casted on. I found that the green/yellow only had 120 stitches on the needle and it wasn't as gathered as the two yellow flowers which had 250 stitches.


2nd sample

I know we only had to do one but I really fancied a go at a design from assignment two, see below I used different materials- these included twisted wool, gathered ribbons, cord wrapped with red violes then stitched into the material. I am pleased with the outcome even though it came out different to how I expected.








Part 3 - Project 6 Stage 3 Applied fabric techniques

Project 6 - Stage 3

Applied fabric techniques

I ventured into new territory here! I had a go at a number of techniques, I have to admit some worked out better than others.Here are my examples:

Organza bonded to calico with Angelina ironed on top
As above but I machine sewed on top then added an organza bow


I enjoyed experimenting with different types of machine sewn applique and cut back applique.


My samples


Bunch of flowers

I received a lovely bunch of flowers and thought it would be good to sketch them before I put them in a vase. I let my imagination run wild on how I was going to apply fabric, I decided to knit and crochet, then use my sewing machine to put stitches on top.

I then had another go at the design below:

Caribbean sea & flowers
When I went to Jamaica I will always remember the view off our balcony, you had flowers then sea. I decided to try and draw what I could remember then had the fun of making the sample. It came out bright and colourful.It doesn't look that much like my picture and it's got a slight bit of puckering, but I do like it.

Part 3 - Stage 2 Developing Ideas

Stage 2 Developing Ideas



I spent time looking at my sketch book and selected six drawings to work and develop. I enjoyed experimenting with the different types of material and matching the fabrics to the different designs.

I sketched this drawing of a tarn nearby, it had lots of light and shade allowing me to experiment with the different types of fabric. 
Local Tarn
The wool black net is eye catching  against the blue denim, and the different colours were used by being over laid in various parts to give a 3D effect. It's a great way of seeing which fabrics work together and how fabrics react when being layered. You can also see how some fabrics change their shade when they are against others, for example the Amaryllis below.



Amaryllis

Dog's rag






Garden View
The dog play rag was an interesting result, I used various thicknesses of fabric and with the different sizes and colours it gave a striking success.It gave a happy mood effect and it does have a resemblance to my drawing even if it is broken up!
The Garden view was my least favourite, it had the 3D effect and using curly wool and felt reflected the light and shade.

Part Three - Creating shapes and three-dimensional forms.

Part Three - Creating shapes and three-dimensional forms

Project 6 Manipulating fabric

Part 3 Stage 1

The first job I did was to sort out all my fabrics, a job that had needed to be done for a long time (it looked like a jumble sale!). I arranged them in order of colour and then bagged them up. It did take quite a bit of time but was well worth doing because I can find the colours & fabric. I need so much quicker. Also if I haven't got what I require I can see straight away.